The Best of Barcelona
The ultimate guide to my favorite city
The four months I lived in Barcelona were constant chaos: weekend trips to elsewhere in Europe and weekday adventures around the city to check every tapas bar, museum, and Gaudí house off my to-do list, all while figuring out how to pass the classes I was taking in Spanish.
I was ecstatic to return to Barcelona for a week in June with my friend Taylor, who also studied abroad there, but a year and a half before I did. We took a more relaxed approach this time around. We were there for Primavera Sound, so in the afternoons before the festival we wandered the cobblestone alleyways of La Ribera and Gràcia, pausing only to peruse a vintage store or grab a coffee or gelato. We reminisced about our abroad experiences, sharing stories that came to us just from being back in that place.
I had a couple friends do the same abroad program the semester after I did it, so I put together a six-paged “Barcelona Bible” for them. I’ve distilled that document down and cross-referenced it with an Apple Maps guide of almost 300 pins and over 150 restaurants, bars, and coffee shops I ranked on Beli to create the synthesized guide that follows. Full disclosure: I was at the beginning of my Beli journey when I was living in Barcelona, so I admit that some of my numerical rankings are higher than they should be. I love the app for archival and social purposes, but the actual ranking algorithm could use some work. More on that another time soon. Until then, follow me @dorrit :)
I made a new Apple Maps guide that marks all the places I list here plus a bunch more. It’s for paid subscribers because I’ve poured a significant number of hours into this endeavor. My strategy when traveling to any city is to create a Maps guide beforehand with places I’ve researched and recommendations I’ve gathered from friends, then I update it as I go. It’s incredibly helpful when you’re plopped into a random city to be able to look at a map and see that there’s a brunch place across the street from you that’s been vetted. And you can plan out your day by visualizing the different spots you want to hit and seeing what’s near each other.
NUTS & BOLTS
If you’ve never been to Barcelona before, I recommend spending at least five days there. Maybe combine it with a few days in Madrid or Mallorca.
The best time to go is late spring or early fall. It will be extremely hot and full of tourists by July and August, but I’ve survived August before. I loved being there the first week of June; it was 75 degrees and sunny every day, and all the Jacaranda trees were in bloom.
I would stay somewhere central in Eixample. I’ve stayed at Hotel Regina, Hotel Sir Victor, El Palace Hotel, and Hotel Casa Fuster. Really depends on your budget—Casa Fuster is phenomenal, El Palace is a little old school and less updated but has a sweet rooftop pool, Sir Victor is a Bonvoy property, and Hotel Regina is bookable with Hyatt points! I’ve never stayed at the Soho House but would in a heartbeat. If you’re going the Airbnb route, look for something in Eixample or Gràcia.
The public transportation is clean and very easy to use, but most areas are walkable. It’s not that big of a city. Just know that when you go to use the metro, you will need to buy a physical metro card at a machine for a certain number of rides. And if you ever want to call a car, I recommend using Cabify or Freenow over Uber.
Also, you’ll hear murmurs about pickpocketing. I’ve never had a problem but know lots of people who have. Just don’t be obnoxiously loud and American. Have your wits about you. Don’t keep your phone in your back pocket. Etc. There’s no violent crime there.
SIGHTSEEING
There is a lot to see, but not so much that it’s overwhelming. The first time I ever visited Barcelona was with my mom and my sister in 2019, and we hired a private tour guide to take us to a few main Gaudí sites, which I remember being worthwhile, but it’s just as easy to buy a la carte tickets to whichever places you want to tour. Sagrada Familia is a must; that should be top priority. The construction will allegedly be finished in 2026. Parc Güell is cool, mostly because I always try to make a point of seeing every city I visit from a point of elevation—the views are amazing there but just as good from Bunkers del Carmel. If you want to see once of the residences Gaudí designed, Casa Batlló is the most centrally located, but my personal favorite is Casa Vicens.
Directly next door to Casa Batlló is Casa Amatller—if you’re seeing one, you should see both. Amatller was designed not by Gaudí but by Josep Puig i Cadafalch in a similar Catalonian modernist style. My favorite Catalonian architect who was similarly maximalist is Lluís Domènech i Montaner. He did Palau de la Música Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau. The Palau is a quick tour but well worth the visit, and the hospital is expansive and just mind blowing. It was a functioning hospital until 2009 and is the most beautiful hospital you’ll ever see. It’s also the largest complex ever built in the Art Nouveau style.
I’d probably split up all the architectural sights over two days. Also, walk around the Universitat de Barcelona main campus near the Universitat metro stop; it’s gorgeous. The Barcelona Cathedral is worth stopping by but looks like most other European churches inside.
Museum-wise, the Moco is a waste of time. The Picasso Museum is great—you need to get timed tickets in advance. Fundació Joan Miró is another great collection. That’s over on Montjuïc, which is a fun area to explore and hike up (or you can take a funicular). Towards the top of that mountain is the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, which is best for its views but the art collection itself is missable.
Definitely make time for a day trip up or down the coast. I highly recommend going to Figueres (1.5 hour drive or train) to visit the Dalí Museum. It might be my favorite museum in the world. It’s properly whimsical and was arranged with such an incredible attention to detail and to his artistry. And while you’re up there, spend the afternoon on a Costa Brava beach! (More on that in the beach section.)
Another cool day trip is up the mountains to Montserrat. Probably not essential if it’s your first time in Barcelona, but the mountains are unlike any I’ve seen before.
I also recommend catching an FC Barcelona game while you’re there. Camp Nou was being renovated when I lived there, but no matter where you’re watching, it’s a blast.
SHOPPING
It took me a very long time to find good vintage stores in Barcelona because the high-traffic areas are oversaturated with mediocre kilo thrift stores. I am now highly confident in my curated list of vintage stores. Taylor and I were successful at most of these. Charli XCX posted on Instagram after shopping at Los Feliz the day before we went there… Get to these spots before all the Tik Tok girlies snatch up all their fabulous pieces!
House of Rowdy: This is the only cool place to shop in the neighborhood where I lived. It’s a bit of a random location but totally worth going. The best thing I bought here was a porcelain menorah that came from Morocco and wasn’t even for sale; the owner thought it was just a cool candelabra, so I explained to her what it was and convinced her to let me take it home. It sat in bubble wrap on my lap all the way to LA.
The Favorite Vintage: This shop opened after I left Barcelona, and now my friend Talia works there part-time whenever she’s in town. The owner is the chicest woman alive. Her name is Alissa and this is her passion project. She has tons of incredible pieces that she’s collected from decades of working in fashion and from random hot people like her Barcelona neighbors. She has designer runway pieces that she’s selling for very reasonable prices. She’s always posting new stuff on Instagram (@thefavoritevintage) and ships internationally, too!
Los Feliz: This place is so well curated and makes you feel like you walked into an Almodóvar movie. So many fun Moschino prints! I found a lot of great stuff this time around.
Le Swing: Within the past two years, they closed their furniture/home goods store which I was sad about, but they now have two side-by-side storefronts in La Ribera. One is vintage, one is more contemporary, both are great! Taylor found amazing vintage Chanel pants for a very good price.
E. Gusmerini: Stumbled upon this shop because it’s a block down from Le Swing. Great mix of vintage pieces and contemporary Catalonian designers.
Cotton Vintage: A lot of high end designer, all in pristine condition. LOTS of Loewe if you’re into buying a Spanish brand in Spain. They had a sneaky sale rack in the back corner—I got a Dolce & Gabbana lace skirt and an Escada blazer for 25 euros each.
Cereria Subirà: Not vintage but an incredible candle store that is older than the United States
TRADITIONAL TAPAS & SPANISH FOOD
If you go to the wrong places, you will hate Spanish food. I do not believe people who say that you can walk into any random restaurant in a non-American city and enjoy the food. The only place that might be true is Tokyo. The food is very affordable in Barcelona, but that doesn’t mean it’s all worth eating.
Bar Cañete: It’s famous for a reason. This is one of the only places you’ll need to book a reservation well in advance. I could eat the squid sandwich for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Bar Alegria: One of the oldest tapas bars in Barcelona. Get the eggplant, the bikini (essentially a grilled cheese with ham), the truffle tortilla, and the Basque cheesecake. Wash it down with a clara (lemon beer).
El Xampanyet: Also a classic for a reason—mostly ambience and history. I once had a server who was the great granddaughter of the people who founded the place. They don’t take reservations, so I recommend going for a bite after the Picasso Museum. Just let the waiter bring you random tapas and leave when you’ve had enough.
Botafumeiro: Definitely a tourist trap but it’s also such a vibe. It’s kind of like the Dan Tana’s of Barcelona (except it does have a Michelin star), and it’s the only paella I had anywhere that I actually thought was worth ordering.
Tapeo: They have two locations, one in Gràcia, one in El Born. It’s slightly more upscale than Xampanyet and Alegria, and the tapas include a bit more culinary fusion. Make a reservation.
Elsa y Fred: Also more experimental in a way that I liked. I was obsessed with the kimchi croquettas.
WINE BARS & SMALL PLATES
My favorite genre of restaurant of all time and one in which I think Barcelona really excels.
Masa Vins: Natural wine bars are taking the world by storm right now, but these lovely people did it first. My friend Bella and I were literally waiting for our laundry to finish at a neighborhood laundromat when we stumbled into this oasis for some olives and a glass of orange wine. I’ve been back easily 20 times since then and could never tire of it. The people are friendly, they’re always spinning vinyls (Alanis Morisette by afternoon, ABBA by night), each glass of wine costs about seven euros, and every small plate is to die for. They don’t take reservations for fewer than six people, but once you’re in there, be prepared to get sucked into the vortex and stumble out three to four hours later.
Berbena: I somehow didn’t make it here until my recent trip, but I absolutely loved it. It’s in the Michelin guide but finds the perfect balance between fussy and hearty and does not feel pretentious. They revolutionize small plates by not just allowing but encouraging people to order half portions of dishes so that you can try more of the menu! Definitely make a reservation a month or so in advance.
Bocanariz: It means “mouth and nose”! How cute. Amazing wine and food here. The ambience is so cozy.
Viblioteca: My favorite part of this meal was the BYO cheese board.
Salut Bistro: Bella and I loved it here. She bought their merch before we went home. They have a solid brunch menu, and I used to sit at the bar with my laptop drinking matcha and eating various snacks during the day. At night, it’s an elegant wine-forward menu. Their patatas bravas are the dish in peak form.
Besta: I remember it having a Michelin star, but I think now it’s just bib gourmand. It’s a fun tasting menu that isn’t too crazy expensive or experimental. I brought my dad, who is always skeptical of a tasting menu, and he liked it.
Bodega Bonay: An elegant bistro where all plates are best shared, no matter their size or what the waiter says.
OTHER CUISINES
Jara: Genuinely incredible sushi. You’re on the water, so the fish is fresh, and everything here is to die for. Save room for dessert and get the yuzu crema Catalana! The restaurant space is tiny, so definitely make a reservation.
Tragaluz: Upscale Italian place that is worth sacrificing one Spanish dinner for. The restaurant space is gorgeous. You cannot go wrong with anything on the menu, but the pastas and vegetables are where they shine. It’s a 9.9 on my Beli…
Labalabusta: Delicious Michelin guide Mediterranean place. Great for lunch or dinner, reservation needed.
Sartoria Panatieri: Casual Neapolitan pizza restaurant—you wouldn’t think you need to book it far out, but you do. One of my favorite pizzas in the world. I’d also die for their leeks. They have two locations in Eixample and Gràcia.
Shoronpo: Delightful ramen bar. Get their signature dumplings. Great place to dine alone at the bar!
Bo de B: Casual sandwich joint that is probably overhyped but still very good and the best deal in the city. It’s cash only, and on my recent trip we went three different times before we actually found it open, despite their hours online saying they were open all three times we went. That’s just how the Catalonians roll, and you can’t really get mad at their incredible quality of life. I marked two other sandwich spots on the map, but the boqadillo from Bo de B is a very unique sandwich you won’t find anywhere else. I usually get chicken and all the sauces and veggie toppings, and it comes out to about six euros.
Fismuler: Fish-forward fancier spot—in addition to the fish I loved their vegetable dishes.
Caravelle: One of the only decent brunch spots I’ve found. There are a million cheugy brunch restaurants around (like Brunch and Cake), but most of the food is not good. Caravelle has great chilaquiles and an entire menu of solid brunch food.
Gringa All Day: My one other brunch pick. I love the vibes here—they’re making fun of Californian diners but doing it so well. I had to buy a t-shirt that says “Gringa.” Probably the only place in Barcelona you can order an Arnold Palmer.
BARS
14 De La Rosa: Cutest cozy cocktail bar in Gràcia, perfect for a nightcap.
Dr. Stravinsky: Go on a weeknight and early to avoid a line. They make my favorite negroni in the world; don’t be scared of the parmesan cheese floater.
Two Schmucks: A few months ago the same team opened Schmuck in the East Village, which of course is much more chic but impossible to get a reservation at. The OG in El Raval is great and very chill!
Bar Salvatge: Casual wine bar in Gràcia, perfect for a pre-dinner drink and snack.
Bar La Camila: Doubles as an all-day coffee shop/café and a chill bar in the evenings. Great local place to start the night or finish an afternoon. Gràcia is my favorite neighborhood to wander the streets; they’re narrow and the bars are so tiny that people naturally pour out into the streets to mingle and drink, which creates a lovely atmosphere. I marked a few other spots that are great for a little Gràcia bar crawl on the Maps guide. During the day there’s always a random street fair happening, and no matter what time it is you’ll find people taking dance classes in a courtyard or knitting inside a boutique.
Sips: It was recently ranked #1 on the world’s best bars list, but I think that list is such bullshit. I’ve been to a bunch of them, and most are so over the top that all the ingredients cancel each other out and your cocktail just tastes like diluted juice. This one is a fun experience though and much better than Paradiso, its counterpart.
As for clubs, that can be an offline conversation for anyone who’s interested in exploring the infamous nightlife scene. Steer clear from the beach clubs (Opium, Shoko, and Pacha). Most of them will be full of 18-year-olds on grad trips and creepy old men. Sala Apolo is cool and I had some fun nights at Sutton, but I may have already aged out of there.
COFFEE & DESSERT
Three Marks Coffee: This was my go-to for iced matcha, yogurt parfaits, and croissants on the way to class, but it’s not incredibly central.
La Central del Raval: Nothing is special about the coffee or food, but the coffee shop is in the courtyard of the cutest bookstore. Perfect place to perch and read.
Candela Canela: A specialty cinnamon bun shop that is worth a visit (I’d argue that Sunday Morning in New York is not).
Takashi Ochiai: My personal favorite pastries in Barcelona—I love the yuzu croissant. Hoffman was rated the best croissant in Barcelona, but I wasn’t wowed by it.
Coto Coffee and Colmado: Super cute to-go coffee shop with a great chai latte
Parallelo: Favorite gelato
La Roseta: Cute family-owned coffee shop with good pastries if you’re ever in La Barceloneta (I wasn’t much)
BEACHES
Real ones know the Barcelona beaches are not the move. The sand is dirty, the air reeks of cigarettes, and you’re clutching your belongings for dear life because you know people are getting pickpocketed left and right. It’s a fun vibe to watch the sunset or hang out there for a bit, but if you’ve pencilled in a full beach day on your itinerary, there are breathtaking beaches that are far superior and not too far outside the city. Fun fact: the Barceloneta beach is actually manmade. When the city hosted the Olympics in 1992 they imported a ton of sand and transformed what was just a port into the beachfront the city is now famous for.
Tossa de Mar: About an hour north by bus, train, or car, this quaint little village is the perfect beach escape. You can hike through cobblestone streets up to an old castle, which towers above a beautiful beach where you can spend the day.
Sitges/Garraf: Less than an hour south of the city is Sitges, which has its own laidback vibe and some great restaurants (La Zorra de Sitges has good paella). One stop before Sitges on the train is Garraf, which isn’t much of a town, but the Little Beach House Barcelona is a stone’s throw from the train. If you are able to go, it is idyllic. Barcelona has a Soho House obsession; the main house in the city is lovely for drinks or a pool day, and they are amidst building a third local house with an even bigger pool.
Cadaqués: One of the most breathtaking towns in Spain, hands down. Gorgeous cliffside beaches and the Dalí House Museum (different from the one in Figueres; this is where he lived) is well worth a visit. It’s two hours north of Barcelona and about an hour from Girona, an inland medieval city that is also worth considering.
Begur: On the way to Cadaqués is Begur, another small beach town, where Taylor and I spent a lovely afternoon by the water. If you wanted to hit Tossa de Mar, Girona, Cadaqués, and Begur, you could probably split them up over two days and spend a night at Hotel La Bionda.
IN SHORT…
Barcelona is so much more than the city you see for two days on a high school grad trip where you hit one museum and go clubbing until 6 am. It’s laidback, it’s artsy, it’s full of life in the most intoxicating way, and it’s worth returning to again and again!
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to The Zest to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.